The Dunn wines from the 1980s and 1990s are sensational. We taste four vintages from the peak period.

The 1988 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain has a powerful nose with powdered sugar, lots of eucalyptus and blackberry, a full body, still plenty of tannin, and is long, dense, and mineral. It is more like a Cabernet from Australia. 19.3/20 points.

The 1991 Dunn Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is probably the most perfect vintage. The wine is animalistic with lots of oyster shells and powdered sugar, cassis, full body, perfect balance, lots of power, and a long finish. The wine needs a lot of air and then gets better and better. 20/20 points.

The Dunn 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is a bit monolithic at first and needs a lot of air in the decanter. The wine has cassis and red peppers, a slight animal note, full body, and is mineral, long, and very dense. 19.5/20 points.

The Dunn 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain has blood, oyster shells, cassis, a hint of eucalyptus, full body, and is dense and long. 19/20 points.