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NEW: Praise and blame of corked wines

Today it is time for ripe wines.

The Gustave Lorentz NV Crémant d’Alsace is from the 1990s and has aged exceptionally well. The wine has a straw color, still retains a fine perlage, predominantly blossoms notes, medium body, good balance, medium length, and a slightly mineral character. With aeration, it becomes spicier and more intense. 17.3/20 points.

German Chardonnay is currently en vogue because, when young, it is somewhat less rich but more mineral and fresh. But it can also age well: The Martin Waßmer 2009 Dottinger Castellberg Chardonnay has caramel, white nougat, a touch of egg custard, a full body, a long finish, good balance, and is mature, yet has aged beautifully. 17.5/20 points.