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NEW: Praise and blame of corked wines

There is wolffish, accompanied by two complementary white wines.

It is truly surprising how well the Alphonse Mellot 1989 Sancerre Cuvée Edmond has held up. The wine is mature — yet not overripe — and absolutely stable. It offers notes of blossoms, golden chain, and spruce cones; it possesses a medium body and elegant bitter nuances, and is both complex and balanced. 18.3/20 points.

The William Fevre 2006 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has now reached perfect maturity, displaying notes of blossoms, white nougat, and caramel — with aeration, apricot also emerges — along with a full body and a long finish. The wine is mineral-driven, dense, and complex. 19/20 points.