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NEW: Praise and blame of corked wines

Let's try some older wines.

It is remarkable how well this wine has held up despite the poor vintage: The Bolla 1981 Valpolicella Classico Superiore Jago is essentially a Ripasso; it offers notes of coffee and a hint of Amarena cherry, possesses a full body, and is balanced, dense, and long-lasting. The wine benefits from aeration in a decanter. 17.5/20 points.

The Bolla 1969 Amarone del Nonno has also held up very well; while it is slightly less aromatic, it offers greater density and power. It features notes of coffee and mocha, a full body, a medium-to-long finish, and good balance, retaining noticeable tannins and a slight bitter note. 17.8/20 points.

The Fritz Haag 2005 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese GK #09 presents a complex nose of powdered sugar, honey, apricot, dried apricot slices, spruce, and spicy notes; it is full-bodied, creamy, dense, long, balanced, and mineral-driven. The wine possesses the characteristic lightness of a Mosel Riesling. 19/20 points.