Now it's time for Riesling again. And some red wines from Palatinate and Loire.

Top winemakers craft great wines even in challenging vintages: The Peter Jakob Kühn 2014 Oestricher Doosberg Riesling needs plenty of air to reveal notes of apricot, peach, cake batter, and orange zest; it offers medium-to-full body, good balance, and perfect ripeness, with a long, dense finish. It is perfect for drinking now - ripe, yet free of petrol notes. 18.8/20 points.

We had expected more from the Prager 2018 Wachstum Bodenstein Riesling Smaragd. The wine is somewhat simple in character, displaying waxy notes alongside hints of alcoholic heat and lactic qualities. 16/20 points.

The estate is actually famous for its red wines, but the Rieslings are equally magnificent: The Philipp Kuhn 2018 Zeller Philippsbrunnen Riesling (an auction wine) features smoky notes, hints of mocha, stone dust, flint, and mint, along with reductive nuances. It has full body, structure, and taut acidity, and is highly mineral, long, dense, and phenolic. The wine possesses tannins and great potential. 18.5/20 points.

There is no reason to cellar this wine for so long, yet it has held up well: The Hensel 2009 Ikarus shows notes of bacon and blackberry, with full body, tannins, a touch of tobacco, medium length, and some acidity. Due to its age, the fruit has faded. Drink now. 17.5/20 points.

The Domaine des Roches Neuves 2015 Saumur-Champigny Les Mémoires - made from 110-year-old vines - displays notes of slate, herbs, and earth, with minimal fruit, full body, and structure; it is dense and long. The wine is polarizing, hovering between seeming "too old" and deserving 18.5/20 points.

Clos Rougeard produces the most elegant Cabernet Francs in the Loire. The Clos Rougeard 2010 Saumur-Champigny features notes of elderberry, blackberry, and plum; it is full-bodied, with animal nuances, structure, density, a long finish, and balance, along with a hint of powdered sugar; it is mineral-driven, highly complex, polished, and elegant. 19/20 points.