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We had to taste some new arrivals in our wine cellars. Since there was fish for dinner, we chose white wines.

Van Volxem is one of the dozen top producers of Riesling in Germany. And so we buy each year some bottles of the sparkling 1900, Riesling Altenberg or this one: The Van Volxem 2018 Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling is a spicy Riesling with apricot, peach, nutmeg and blossoms. It is nearly full-bodied, spicy, very salty and mineral, amazingly juicy, complex and elegant. It makes so much fun - you open a bottle and it's gone. 18.8/20 points and potential for more.

The vintages, we had so far (2008, 2010, 2011), were all great wines. So, we were very excited about the vintage which has in general less reputation. But the Emrich-Schönleber 2014 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling R is again a stunner: It starts with quince and cool style and needs time to open up. With aeration it turns to exotic fruits and white chocolate. It is full-bodied, very salty and mineral, very dense and juicy, with power, a bit of botrytis and a slight residual sweetness. It has a long finish and combines power with elegance. 18.8/20 points and potential for more.

The Château de Beaucastel 2018 Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is very expressive with blossoms, nuts and nutmeg. It is full-bodied, dense, creamy, balanced and has nutmeg and floor wax in the finish. The wine should be drunk now. Don't cellar it too long, in our experience, the wine does not last for a decade and makes fun when it is young. 19.3/20 points.

The Lopez de Heredia 2007 Tondonia Blanc Reserva is a traditional Rioja which needs a lot of time to get to the peak. It starts with wet sheep's wool and a hint of egg prick and comes to caramel and floor wax with aeration. Full-bodied, oily, salty and mineral, it is far too young now, but if you like character and complexity, it is enjoyable now. 18/20 points.